[from obs. mainstream slang hand-rolled in opposition to ready-made,
referring to cigarettes] To perform a normally automated software
installation or configuration process {by hand}; implies that the
normal process failed due to bugs in the configurator or was defeated
by something exceptional in the local environment. "The worst thing
about being a gateway between four different nets is having to
hand-roll a new sendmail configuration every time any of them
upgrades."
[glossary]